The Black Mountain Blog

Almost Fall

2011-09-06T22:36:00.000-07:00

Summer hiatus is over. Although September does not usually cool off much, temps should get back to a more manageable zone. And if we are lucky winter will start slow allowing for prime conditions for the rest of the year. Several winters back (2008-09) we were able to climb until mid December and then again in February, albeit with a little hiking. The guide is coming along well, but tedious as to be expected with an area this vast. Comrade Moore has migrated to Spain for the next year but has put in a lot of hard work this summer and I will wrap things up this fall. As always we are always looking for your help with names, grades, info, etc, if anybody has two cents!

A summer project

2011-05-08T09:29:00.000-07:00

This is surely one of Blacks best undone lines...for now!

The Gate is Open!

2011-05-06T21:15:00.000-07:00

The summer season is officially here as usual with the simultaneous occurrences of the first 80+ plus day and an unlocked gate. However, there is a cool down forecasted back into the low 60's for the weekend and following week. Alan and I have set a tentative target date of Aug 1 to be done with all work on the mountain for a comprehensive first edition. Our focus will primarily be getting up to Black with others who can help put together the pieces of over four decades of bouldering history as well as wrapping up all the loose ends with the topos and descriptions. If you or anybody you know has any input or might know some original names/FA's now is your time to let us know. Just shoot over an email to blackmountainblog@gmail.com. Thanks!

Forms at the Republic

Another new exhilerating line at the Wild Things Area

April 2011

2011-05-02T23:09:00.001-07:00

New Season

2011-04-04T08:01:00.001-07:00

The heavy snows are quickly thawing out, and although access up to the Corral and Basin is still closed, several great spots are in prime condition. The Republic and Trailside are dry, and for the hikers, the Corral is too. We are still compiling info for the guide and are planning to wrap things up and get it over to Wolverine this summer. The mountain is way too vast for a guide to be completely comprehensive so we are working to finish up documentation of all currently established areas and call it good for the first edition. The first two images below are from a whole other sector currently accesible that will take several seasons to fully explore. More tall singular lines on good rock with good landings, and hard!

Bridget working on the VP project.

Sitting under the "Vice President Project." Notice the untouched hand crack the is continuous from the ground to the top under the 45 degree face. Yikes.

Bridget on "Shoot the Moon" at the Trailside Boulder

Dr. Topo Returns

2010-11-01T11:59:00.000-07:00

The guide is getting close to completion, but that isn't a whole lot of help for people who want to head up to black mountain RIGHT NOW. There used to be an old Dr. Topo guide online, but the site went under a year ago leaving everyone with nothing. Well here it is once again, uploaded with Dave Struther's permission. Have fun.

Once Upon a Time

2010-09-19T13:05:00.001-07:00

What you can't see in this image is the 40ft chasm at the edge of the dome on one side of the lowest pad and a 60ft+ drop on the other which earns this block a double fluttery heart as well as the best sunset views at Black. To my knowledge this was an FA yesterday, which is rightly given in team fashion to all who sent. Although moderate at the grade (v3ish), this climb, as well as the descent, demands a very solid head. It is an astonishing addition to Blacks highball adventure bouldering circuit.

Out of the Ok Corral

2010-09-13T20:34:00.000-07:00

Some of the best climbing on the mountain is accessed from the Corral. Over the last few years we have climbed on a ton of new/rediscovered blocks largely to the west of the Corral at about the same elevation. A 30 minute trek west of the parking sits several clusters of monster boulders, most with flat, even sandy landings. There are several hundred climbs along this stretch of the mountain that are very worthy of inclusion to the guide. In the last three years I have never seen another climber out that way that was not with us that day, however, I know we are not the first to venture here. Subtle evidence of a broken flake, a scrubbed foothold, seasons old chalk lingering inside of a mossy undercling, serve as a rare reminder that others at some point were not afraid of a 30 minute walk to go bouldering. If you or anyone you know has some history about these outer lying boulders please shoot me an email. Thanks. Here are some samples of the rock to human scale.

Myself on a still undone and very committing project....

Jeff H. warming up on one of the best highball v4's anywhere.

Best temps since May

2010-09-02T20:25:00.000-07:00

The Broken Heart Area

2010-08-26T23:35:00.000-07:00

Uphill and a few hundred yards north of the OK Coral is the Broken Heart Boulder (featured on the inside cover of Craig Fry's Socal Bouldering Guide but nowhere described) and a handful of other easily accessible and classic lines. Here Anthony T. squeezes his way up an original Dan Osmond problem just around the corner from the Broken Heart. If anyone has information regarding names and history for climbs in this area please post up or shoot us an email. Thanks!

Summer Days...

2010-06-19T20:44:00.000-07:00

Aron on the Ok Arete

...make for good evening sessions

The Gate is Open

2010-05-14T22:24:00.001-07:00

We can all now boulder without making our quads all big thereby causing falls. Yippeeeee.

Long Awaited Update that is Unquestionably Not Worth the Wait

2010-05-13T17:49:00.000-07:00

We've been horribly negligent with this blog here. Chock it up to Ian's new job and Alan's dissertation. Things always come up, you all know.

So some news. The season started off at the Republic, and except for a few projects here and there, the area is fully developed. Below you can see an open palm full of power spot on the moss project.

We then started walking up to the Ok Corral since the gate is closed (more on this later). My god it's been beautiful up there in the clouds - fog makes the mountain into a magical wonderland of rock and stone. Although we don't know many of the names for the problems in the Corral (it's likely they simply don't have them), the guidebooking for the Corral is pretty much finished.

We added a new sit start to Morphic Resonance, somewhere around v11. Here's a photo, since to see this wall is to love this wall.

We also put up a v8 to the right of Morphic, starting on a sloper and traversing up and right into the Hueco Wall. We've called it Run Run Carmel, but there's a decent chance it's already been done. Anyone know?

Now it's time to move up the mountain. Word on the street is that the gate opens up tomorrow, but we'll have to confirm this over the weekend. Keeping in line with the title, that is all for now. We'll try hard not to shirk our obligations in the future.

BMW

2010-04-20T16:44:00.000-07:00

[UPDATE]: Weather is looking bad tomorrow. Climbing is probably off for the day...boulder at your own risk!

Going out to the Republic again tomorrow for a half day of climbing. Anyone in the IE interested can meet us at Threshold in Riverside at noon. Otherwise, we'll be up there around 1:00.

Black Mountain Friday

2010-04-15T08:25:00.001-07:00

A group of us are heading out Friday, most likely to the Republic. Email us if you want to join, address on the right.

2010-04-11T10:41:00.000-07:00

Saturday made for another fine outing at Black with a great crew and the traditional champagne to welcome in another season. Props to Aron C. for completing two new lines at the Republic on the ironically dubbed "pixie boulder." This is the first boulder one sees when approaching the Republic, 30+ ft of slightly less the vertical face and even more slightly featured. Quintessential oldschool Black! Below Craig is warming up on the center line This Monkeys Gone to Heaven, the original line that runs directly up the center of the face at around V2/3. Aron added a line on either side of this both about a grade harder, a bit more frightening, and both share the center start. The left line begins by moving diagonally up and left to the arete on poor smears, and the right, named Where is my Mind, joins up with the under-cling seam above the small pine. All three lines have many stars and are a great rite of passage into the world of tall slab at Black.

Matty on Twighlight

And Anthony T sending Twighlight. Nice work on this and Metamorphosis in one day!

2010-04-04T17:04:00.000-07:00

Crisp temps and dry blocks at the Republic and beyond. Although the main gate will probably open late this season because of the heavy snow pack, we will be plenty busy with many new projects and guide booking at lower elevation areas and possibly a hike or two up to the Corral. If anybody has input now is the time. We will be making a big push to gather info, opinions, and photos this spring and in general tie up loose ends. Email us at blackmountainblog@gmail.com
Thanks!

Return of Black Mountain Wednesday

2010-01-04T11:57:00.000-08:00

I am heading up to get photos, gps, and refine a topo around Twighlight of the Idols Wednesday incase anyone wants to meet up...and every other Wednesday weather abiding.

Perfect Conditions

2009-12-30T15:23:00.000-08:00

Yesterday, Nick and I ventured up to Black to see what lower elevation areas might be climbable. Basically the entire west side of the mountain is in perfect condition probably all the way up to the Boulder Basin. We were able to drive the unnamed and unmarked road up to the Republic, which was snow free, and climb all day around Twilight of the Idols at 6600'. 45 degrees, sunny, and patches of snow in shady spots made for perfect conditions to climb many unknown lines in this area.

Nick contemplating the sequence under Twilight of the Idols

New Gate

2009-12-17T16:41:00.001-08:00

Good news from the Forest Service today. Officers at the Idyllwild ranger station have been given the green light to install a gate near the Ok Corral, pending financial support and volunteer labor from the climbing community. At our meeting with the Forrest Service earlier this year this was one of the main points discussed: How can access be achieved for a larger part of the year, particularly in the spring when lower parts of the mountain are in good climbing condition. Their main concerns about opening the gate earlier in the season are erosion to the road and the probability that people will go up in the snow on the 10 miles of unmaintained road and get stuck and need assistance. A reasonable conclusion that we suggested was to install a gate that would allow access just to the Ok Corral so the lower gate could be unlocked. This would open up a huge area of some of Black Mountain's best climbing during the optimal season. We figured that as a community we could help raise funds and rally the labor.

As of now it sounds like logistics will be worked out with the forest service in the spring (location, NEPA related planning, raw material, etc.) after the snow recedes and installation will commence in the summer. In the meantime Alan and I will need help organizing a fundraising event(s). Let us know if you have any ideas, like a dunk tank for Alan, or auctioning off the naming rights to unnamed climbs, or swag to raffle off. Initial quotes on the gate were around $2400, a manageable figure but not a cheap gate. Fingers are still crossed with all things this bureaucratic, but for now I think the community can chalk this up as a victory to be celebrated. We will keep you posted with further updates.

End of Season

2009-12-09T09:14:00.000-08:00

People were able to make a few more cold and sloppy trips up to the Ok Coral and the Republic after lasts week snow, but this most recent storm surely has dropped multiple feet of the white stuff. With several storms lined up in the Pacific, and forecasters calling for above average snow pack, it looks like Black is out of commission for a few months. Alan and I will be back out at the lower elevation spots as soon as possible and in the meantime, we are focusing on the literary section of the book and maybe even roping up for some Jtree trad.

Expatriot

2009-11-26T07:49:00.000-08:00

Alex recently provided this footage of Expatriot shot last spring. The problem is about a hundred+ yards downhill from the visor under the landmark alien spaceship boulder perched on a small dome. It is a four star, amazingly steep, blocky roof atypical of Black. If anybody has worked this line we would love to get feedback on the grade. v10, 11, and 12 have all been suggested. If you have been on it let us know what you think.

Dementor

2009-11-17T22:05:00.000-08:00

An old Toni Lamprect FA over by Cracker Boy. Many of you probably know the stand start as that cool geometric v8 thing in the corridor. The sit is called Dementor and clocks in somewhere around v12. Poor quality, but hey, that's all you're gonna get.

UPDATE: Fixed the name from Dominion to Dementor. Stupid generic boulder problem names. Might as well be Soul (take your pick: Snatch, Caliber, Slinger, Shine).

UPDATE: Fixed the post title too. Why can't I remember the name of this problem? It switches in my brain from minute to minute.

2009-11-16T09:31:00.000-08:00

Silver Fox

and the

Captain's Junk Cave Project

Black Mountain on Climbing Narc

2009-11-13T13:20:00.001-08:00

Alex's vid of Beowulf was featured by the Climbing Narc.

Epic photo

2009-11-13T12:59:00.000-08:00

Ian the Ubermensch on Twilight of the Idols. Photo by Damon Corso. You can see more of his stuff here.

Black Mountain Thursday

2009-11-13T12:26:00.000-08:00

Looking back at the blog, it might look as if we only care about the hard problems, but this isn't true at all. Although they rarely make the blog, there are great moderates; problems for all levels and for all climbers. Some thoughts on why hard problems dominate the discussion here:

#1 The hard problems are the ones we spend the most time on because they are...well...hard. We have a connection to them we lack with many of the moderates.

#2 Hard climbs are rarer, and in that respect stand out. There are over 900 problems under v9, and only an ever-growing handful that are harder (31 and counting).

#3 The moderates at Black Mountain need no introduction. Everyone knows there are heaps of amazing climbs for beginner and intermediate climbers. It is less well known that there are harder problems as well. We are taking old school Black Mountain and turning it into a modern climbing area, and that necessitates double digits.

With that being said, Sexual Healing (v11) was just put up yesterday at the Chappies. Out to the Wild Things area Saturday!

Photo: Ian on the Captain Junk project.

Weekend Update

2009-11-08T20:45:00.000-08:00

The drive to finish the guidebook keeps us up at night and on the mountain for the weekends. Saturday was spent on the west slope at the Lion's Mane and Wild Things areas. There are some great circuits around these two large boulders, and the majority of development on the mountain will take place here. Sunday was spent finishing up the climbing at the Chappies.

The FAs keep poring in, and Black Mountain now has more double digit climbs than Tramway and Joshua Tree combined, and for each hard climb there are twenty moderates. It looks like the book will have around 1000 problems, and we're doing our best to climb them all...

Beowulf

2009-11-04T15:34:00.000-08:00

Via Alex over at savageclimbing.com, a video of Ian on Beowulf. Oh the agony of defeat, the middle section will break your heart. Unless, of course, you are heartless.

Oh Black Mountain

2009-11-03T09:43:00.000-08:00

We <3 you.

Four Stars

2009-11-01T23:16:00.000-08:00

Here are some snaps from the weekend of two lesser known world class climbs of Herculean stature from opposite sides of the mountain. They share an aesthetic grandness, a pure sequence, 20+ moves, 35+ ft, and they are both very hard.

Raison d'Etre

2009-10-27T10:53:00.000-07:00

A new addition to the Tour de France wall. Alan should be credited with working out all of the beta, that's right, ALL THE BETA. It's like that saying, "If I have climbed harder, it is by standing on the shoulder of giants," with "giants" being Alan and "climbing harder" being Ian's FA of this problem. Somewhere between v10 and v11. Let us know. (There are lots of "come on" so you may want the sound off).

Brush Brush Brush

2009-10-25T22:15:00.000-07:00

This is what we do three days a week, every week until the snow comes. Brushing problems, climbing problems, writing it all down. The project continues! Hats off to everyone who's been coming out with us, getting on new things and confirming the grades.

We spent Sunday at the YMCA camp. At some point Ian became scarface - he claims a tree is the cause but I have reason to believe otherwise - and here is ~~Ian~~ Scarface getting ready to commit on Light as a Feather (V6).

Nick, being a Navy Seal and all, required TWO spotters when he climbs. The idea is that he would crush a single individual, and somehow doubling up is supposed to fix that. I don't understand it either. The lighting on this arete is cool though, and it has a sweet view of the creepy burned down camp. Name anyone? More photos to come as we process them...

Fall Update

2009-10-19T14:27:00.000-07:00

I have been too busy at Black this fall to even update this little blog. Autumn is officially here as is the window of crispy temps we so dearly cherish. We are nearing completion of rough drafts for the Basin, Summit, Lookout, and the area spanning from Town Square to Group site 4 and 5. Also included in the list of completed rough drafts are the Chappies and several areas below where some pretty amazing projects have gone down recently. In other news, I hiked Fuller ridge to the summit of San Jacinto last week, sixteen miles roundtrip, and about 3.5 miles in around 9000’ is a boulder field reminiscent of the Druid Stones above Bishop. It is unlikely that many boulderers would make the trek, or that we will have the time to either, but it is worth mention and we will try to learn a little more and put directions in the guide for the ambitious. Our midweek Black Mountain day has changed to Thursdays if anyone wants to join. We need lots of help just climbing everything to get grade consensus as well as help from those who know history and problem names for different areas on the mountain. Thanks!

Happy Birthday

2009-09-20T12:18:00.001-07:00

The Basins sharp but classic Transmaniacon!

Pilo on Trans

This weekend we kicked off the fall season with the annual Buck and A-ron Birthday roundup.Temps are getting better! Alan and I have a ton of work to do this fall on the guide and every ones help with problem names, grades, projects, pics, or any other information pertinent to the guide book such as getting contact info for oldschoolers and prior generations of Black Mountain climbers who might like to put in their two cents. Get the word out!...we can be reached here or at our email blackmountainblog@gmail.com. This is your time to tell us what you want out of the guide, when you did it, what you called it, and how hard you think it was regardless of whether it was last spring or back in 82'. We are nearing completion on the majority of topos for main and peripheral areas created in illustrator with the help of gps mapping software, aerial photos, and forest service maps, however, getting accurate names and consensus grades is going to be our biggest challenge.

In other BM news...fall is approaching which means great temps accompanied by anxiety that the gate might get closed at the lightest dusting of snow. Alan and I are in communication with the forest service to potentially put in a higher gate at the OK Corral that would be closed first, allowing longer access into the winter. For this to go down climbers might need to help raise funds to pay for it and believe or not, those gates are not cheap. One way to raise cash that we have been talking about would be a raffle of donated items from socal gyms, retailers, gear makers, and anyone else willing to participate. Another good, although slightly contentious idea would be hosting an online auction to give climbers the chance to name an unnamed boulder problem of which Black Mountain has its fair share. If anybody has any other ideas or input regarding a new gate, winter closures, or lobbying the forest service please get in touch with us.

So back to problem names and an example of the historical tangle we are up against. The images below, shot Saturday, are of a prominent triangular overhang on the west side of the road between group site 3 and sites 4 and 5. It is uphill about 50 or so yards and easily visible from the road. The climb starts on two diagonal incuts from a squat start, throw to a shelf, make your way to the right arete and then compress to the top at about v7ish. It is a quality line with a little spice at the top! Locals claimed the FA in 03' and dubbed it Vegan Shoveler, however, rumor has it that a season or two earlier a crew passing through from Arizona did it. In addition to this there have been capable climbers frequenting the outer flanks of this mountain discretely for decades. An obvious line, a stones throw from the road...could have been done in 82'.

Bridget, A-ron, and Isaac on "Vegan Shoveler" v7

Part II

2009-07-09T10:06:00.000-07:00

As long as the wind blows, summer climbing at Black is manageable. Oddly, by mid-afternoon yesterday we were looking for our hoodies as gusts of cool air threatened to rearrange the pads. Featured below is a look at an abbreviated sequence of the many starred Ghost Dog v8 that also earns a deserving fluttery heart due to the cruxy last lock and pop to the top at 20ft. Exhilarating! I was able to get these snaps off a rope set up to clean lines on the adjacent monster bowling pin block featured below. And the last image is of Pilo, sending a fine dihedral in style, one of the many high quality moderate climbs of the area.

Damo sessing the gently overhung Ghost Dog V8

A very technical lower sequence gets you to a rail with best holds (polished near full pad sloping edeges) on the climb 3/4 of the way up

Crux!

FKA of 8 Ball in reference to the 8th pocket being the one to grab.

Pilo on the FKA of Flaming lips. Photo by D. Corso

YMCA!

2009-06-25T10:29:00.001-07:00

A brief peek at where this Wednesday's session took us...

Damo making the FKA (first known ascent) of Light as a Feather v6.

Pilo on one of many steep crimp lines at this sector of the mountain. photo by D. Corso

And myself, pressing out the top of Solstice V7/8. photo by D. Corso

Where the Wild Things Are...

2009-06-17T10:17:00.000-07:00

Bridget on Velvet Revolver

Check out this vid that Alex created from the weekend at http://www.savageclimbing.com/. We have been working on mapping out the south west side of the mountain accessed from the Corral. A lot of this climbing is typical Black Mtn with some out of the ordinary gems mixed in. At approximately the same elevation, the bouldering continues out of the Corral all the way around the mountain until you hit the Black Mountain Trail which would take you down to the 243 or up to Boulder Basin. This is a long 1.5 mile slog not necessarily worth doing in its entirety, however, along the way tons of rock has piled up hosting some amazing lines like Where the Wild Things Are featured in Alex's vid. The weather for the last several weeks has been pleasant, with the clouds resting right below the mountain creating the June gloom island effect. It does look like things are about to warm up. With Alan on guide book hiatus in South Africa and summer heat about to kick in I will be a little less ambitious through July and August. I will still try to make it up once a week if anyone wants to join as well as update this blog with guide book progress so that anyone interested in the our current focus, giving input, or meeting up can do so. Currently I am occupied collecting all the raw data necessary for finishing up topos to established and peripheral areas. Once the maps are in a near finished state it will be easier to then collect all the missing info like little known problem names and description details. Thus the goal by the end of summer is to have all topos for the Republic, Ok Corral, Boulder Basin, Summit/Lookout, Group sites, Chappies/YMCA and beyond near completion. So far the book will be structured into these 6 general regions loosely grouped based on access with a lot of smaller areas and satellite blocks included. Below is a rough draft an overview map showing this grouping. Let me know what you think?

!BMW!

2009-06-11T09:36:00.000-07:00

Nuevo Negro!

2009-06-02T08:59:00.000-07:00

With the spring semester/quarter coming to a close, most of you Wednesday climbers/adult learners seem to be preoccupied. For anyone able and interested, we are going to be leaving the OK Corral tomorrow morning around 9:30am to climb on some very large blocks that require about a 30 minute walk around the hill. It should be a good day venturing into the little known outer realms of the Black Mtn. bouldering. The guide book process so far has been focused largely on the main areas, however, time has come to venture out a bit more and decipher what is worthy of including in the outer lying vicinity. This process of recon, cleaning, and climbing is a lot of work but very rewarding, and everyone's participation is very much appreciated. Look for my little silver Tacoma at the Corral, and carpooling up the Mtn is an option too. If we all go into the woods and clean a problem then we each have one new line, if we share what we found than we all have many new lines!

Always Psyched...

2009-06-01T21:50:00.000-07:00

Alex Savage making it look easy on a repeat session of Bang On.

Also, check out this cool Black Mtn vid from the last couple weeks at http://www.savageclimbing.com/

Chappies

2009-05-21T14:26:00.000-07:00

Black Mountain Wednesday was spent at the Chappies yesterday, and what a nice little bunch of boulders! The Chappies aren't a new area, but they are rarely climbed on because info is rather scarce. The rock is a little different than Boulder Basin, and feels more like the Tram, or even at times, like the Buttermilks.

Directions (stolen from the SoCalPD): Drive past Boulder Basin until you get to the Fuller ridge road split. Go down hill, or left if you're looking at it like a fork, and continue from this point for up to a 1/2 mile. There will be a very obvious sandy pullout on your left, really the only left you can make after the split. Park here and continue on foot down the road/trail found in the back left of the "parking lot" area.

Continue down hill on trail through "campsite" (do NOT camp here) and cross the small stream up hill to left into the obvious pile of rocks. The Chappies spread up hill from here, to the road, and down hill from here, to the road again.

Fun rocks abound, like the v3 above (anyone know the name?). A complete classic! But it isn't all easy, and once this area is fully developed, it could have the largest concentration of hard climbs on the mountain. In one day we spotted at least five lines with the potential to be double digits.

Here we have Ian on (what we think is) a new problem, Moss Apocalypse (v7). A cool heel hooking lip leads to a scary topout, but luckily the climbing gets easier as the climber gets higher.

I leave you with this: Joe trying trying trying...falling.

December Boulders

2009-05-18T08:24:00.000-07:00

Some images from the weekend...

Bridget sending Moondrops V7

Alex FA'ing the December Project (Name yet Alex?)

Joe on a little overhang right off the road on the way to Cracker Boy, dubbed Born Under Punches (V7ish) until determined otherwise.

Alex on the impeccable warm up face near the December boulders. We are referring to a little cluster of boulders between the Corral and Basin perched on the ridge below and north of Bang On as the December boulders. These blocks have most likely seen some action in years past, particularly the moderate faces, but the harder steep lines appeared untouched unfortunately, because it was a ton of work to clean them. Anyone curious about this little area of about 20 problems from V0-V10, with some classic midrange climbs, can access it via the left turn off of 4S01 (Black Mtn Truck Trail) onto the Boulder Basin Campground road. Park at the immediate turnout by the gate and walk up the road a few hundred yards until it curves right towards the campground. Here you cut left off the road as if you were going to walk cross country to the Corral through a wash and onto the ridge were the blocks sit at about the same elevation as the road. About a 10 minute approach. If anyone knows any history to this area please let us know so we can get accurate names and info. Thanks!

Meeting with Forest Service

2009-05-14T14:46:00.000-07:00

The meeting went amazingly well. We met with John Ladley, Recreation Office, and Andy Smith, Assistant Recreation Office (check outAndy's work at Taquitz). Both were not only friendly, and seemed to truly care about the mountains, but were also open to reasonable suggestions for change. Here's the cliff notes version of the meeting, in ascending order of importance:

1. John and Andy didn't know about the dirt road to the Republic, so there is little chance of it being cleaned up any time soon. Ah well, real men have trucks anyway.

2. Of course you need an adventure pass to park on the road, but the Golden Eagle Pass - or what do they call it now, the "America the Beautiful Interagency Access Pass" (how lovingly bureaucratic) - also works. Just put it on the windshield.

3. Parking in the campground with an adventure pass is allowed (although I've heard reports to the contrary in the past), just don't do it on a busy weekend when you may be taking sites away from campers. Use common sense.

4. There are some pictographs around OK Corral. We've all seen them, but I just assumed it was paint from the 70s or something. We were first told to enjoy them and then to respect them. Remember Hueco, and be kind to the writing on the rocks.

5. The lower gate is closed to prevent people from trashing the road and getting stuck when there is mud and snow. But as we pointed out, the road below the Corral - and to a large extent the campground as well - dries out early in the season. We suggested that another gate be added directly above the Corral or the campground, and John and Andy were both open to it. HEAR THAT! WE COULD HAVE NEARLY YEAR ROUND BLACK MOUNTAIN ACCESS!

A second gate isn't a done deal by any means, but the possibility is a live one. It needs to get cleared by the fire people, and someone has to pay for it (perhaps $3,000), but there may soon come a day when the summer is Black Mountain's off season.

Overall the meeting went as well as could be imagined. Any thoughts on all this?

Vote! Best Problems!

2009-05-14T13:28:00.001-07:00

Why? Because why not. Vote suckas! Do it here, do it now.

Meeting with Forest Service

2009-05-10T22:12:00.001-07:00

Alan and Ian are meeting with a rep for the Forest Service Wednesday morning. We see it as a way to open up a dialogue with the Forest Service so that we can sort through issues before they become blown up with the publishing of the new guide. So far, we are planning on discussing.

1. Access: Is there any way to get those gates open earlier.

2. Trail Building: Is this a problem?

3. Parking in the Campground: What exactly are the rules?

4. What concerns does the Forest Service have?

What else? What questions do you all have? How should we approach these issues? Comment here and we'll post answers later this week.

BMW

2009-05-08T14:48:00.000-07:00

With the gate open, posting our Black Mountain plans for the weekend just doesn't seem to be so important. There will be plenty of people going up there anyway, so who needs us? That being said, we'll be out there both days. We're not sure on Saturday, but Sunday begins at the top, at the base of the lookout tower, before moving down to the Bang On area. Come on out!

BMW

2009-05-07T14:13:00.000-07:00

Black Mountain Wednesdays are getting popular! Ten of us were at the summit yesterday, climbing around NRA, Bang On, and Cracker Boy. How did we get up there, with the gate closed and all? Easy, THE GATE IS OPEN! No more long hikes required.

Above you can see Alan on an unnamed v8 near Cracker Boy. What's going on there? A nasty mantle topout, that's what.

Below is Mike on a v2 warmup near NRA. There is a few boulders with a bunch of quality v0-v3, right through the cave from the main circuit. The summit is much cooler than the Corral or Boulder Basin, so check it out on those hot hot summer days.

And a question. Does anyone know about all those climbs near Bang On? There are a number of tall faces in the area, and I'm sure someone has climbed them, but who?

One Month, 1,000 Visits!

2009-05-03T15:38:00.000-07:00

Today is a day of celebration! It appears as if the BMB is doing its job - getting word out about Black Mountain's unknown climbs and putting us in touch with the older generation of Black Mountain climbers who know more about this mountain than anyone. Hats off to everyone who's contacted us about putting up problems in the 80s and 90s! This mountain has such a history, it makes us proud to be contributing to it.

In the month since BMB conception we've had over 1,000 page views and nearly 400 unique visitors. We hope this keeps up!

Below Loh's

2009-05-03T10:26:00.001-07:00

After tromping around the mountain, solo, or with one or two other people for the majority of the spring, it was very nice to have a few extra heads, spots, and pads yesterday. We focused our efforts on the cluster of large, previously undocumented blocks below Morphic Res and Loh's Roof. There are five or so gigantic boulders of decent quality further down the gully that have some high ball potential as well as some steeper, not so tall angles. Has anybody scoped these out in the past? Above, Alan is attempting a ground up ascent, brush in hand, of an enormous but featured face, gained by bouldering through the steeper V6ish lower section. Below, Alex and the T brothers are trying to power through for a second ascent of Lobotomy V11ish located 10ft to the right of Loh's Roof.

BMW

2009-05-01T15:20:00.000-07:00

The weather isn't perfect, but we will persevere! OK Coral on Saturday, Republic on Sunday. We should have a large crowd both days, and as always, all are welcome.

Super Topo Thread

2009-04-30T11:15:00.001-07:00

Here is a thread containing some fantastic Black Mountain pictures from the 70's and 80's.

Question???

2009-04-30T08:22:00.000-07:00

Does anybody know the name or history of the right corner on this block? About a 15 minute walk west and slightly up hill of the OK Corral sits this gem as well as a handful of others that appear to have been climbed or at least cleaned, including a large, very hard, slightly overhung dihedral with a large cheat stone pile under it. Anybody???

Joe on a very nice V7ish line in the vicinity.

2009-04-28T13:22:00.000-07:00

Alan and I will be heading up to the Ok Corral tomorrow morning if anybody would like to join. We plan on being at the second gate (the locked one) around 9am. We have dialed in the walk and it is a casual 25-30 min walk if you cut out a few of the switchbacks. Temps look good for a full day!

Lots of Boulders

2009-04-24T00:10:00.000-07:00

Joe on Gimmi Some. This problem is amazing. Impossible until you do it, then easy as pie. Such a learned problem can't be found in the old gym. Kind of like Dark Horse in that regard - it's either done or not even close.

Joe once again, this time working the beginning of Morphic Resonance. What an amazing climb, and certainly hard for a v9! The moves on the sit start are possible, but a little to hard for the BMB this season. We need to get some of those kids up in here!

Every time we wander around the OK Corral, we're amazed at how many boulders there are. Lots of hiking, lots of scouting, lots of brushing. Hopefully we'll have a nice circuit of 50+ problems finished by the time the gate opens, all of them up hill and West of the established problems. If anyone's going up there before May 15 and wants directions, let us know! Otherwise, photos and problems will trickle in.

BMW

2009-04-21T11:15:00.000-07:00

Black Mountain Wednesday continues tomorrow with another trip to the Corral. We'll be warming up around the OK Arete area before moving down to Morphic Resonance and finishing up on new boulders around the hillside. All are welcome! We meet at Threshhold at 8:15.

Walking to the Corral

2009-04-19T23:14:00.000-07:00

As we saw in an earlier post, the walk from the second gate up to the OK Corral really isn't too far. Given that the gate won't be open until May 15, we just couldn't wait. It only takes 30 minutes to make the trek, following the road the whole way up. You can get down in half the time by cutting through the switchbacks, but it isn't recommended on the way up.

BMW

2009-04-16T09:31:00.000-07:00

The BMB hears that Alan is feeling adventurous, so it's off to the OK Corral we go! Anyone up for a little hiking this Saturday, since it looks like the gate is still closed. There is a light dusting of snow and frost that makes the place more beautiful than ever, and the hike really isn't that long. Who's down?

BMW Roundup

2009-04-15T23:47:00.000-07:00

This climb is a thing of beauty, without doubt one of the best in the country. The location, the movements, the romantic snowflakes that were falling during this send - everything about it demands your affection. Twilight of the Idols, perhaps v10ish we are thinking. But what do we know, get on it yourself!

Directions: From the Republic, continue up the dirt road until it ends, turning into a manzanita tunnel chopped through the brush. Follow this for about twenty minutes until the ground levels out and you return to the daylight. From the end of the tunnel, the obvious footprints and ducks trend forward and left for another ten minutes until you come across this beauty.

In other news, BMW was awesome once again. We had Joe and we had Joel and we had Alan and we had Nick and we had a little bit of another Joe. We could use more company though, so get work off next Wednesday everyone! Lots of brushing, lots of heartbreak, and a little bit of victory - that's what BMW is all about. Take a look:

Oh he wants it! Joel wants it so badly!

Nic on some cool boulders over by Twilight. He got scared and came down though, so don't think this is anything impressive.

Black Mountain Map

2009-04-14T08:05:00.000-07:00

Since the gate second gate appears to be closed for the time being, here's a map of the road from the second gate (A) to the OK Corral (B) and Boulder Basin (C). Walking doesn't look like it would be too bad - 2.3 miles from the gate to the corral if you follow the road the whole way. But since the road takes all those curves, a crafty boulderer could probably cut this in half by cutting straight through.

What do you all think? How long is the treck? What are the best switchbacks to leave off? Is there a trail? We've been too lazy at the BMB, but this is going to change soon.

Gate Open! Sort of.

2009-04-13T10:38:00.000-07:00

It appears the early gate unlocking was merely to let some loggers in, since the people who destroy our nation's forests should clearly get priority access to them. There is now a sign on the gate saying it will not be unlocked until May 15. Bah!

BMW

2009-04-13T10:35:00.000-07:00

It looks like people are psyched on the Republic, so the BMB will be up there again this Wednesday. Early. Leaving Riverside at 8:00. Any one else want to come? Directions here.

The Moss Problem

2009-04-11T22:28:00.000-07:00

At the Republic. Yet to be done. Isn't the green lovely?

Videos

2009-04-11T13:10:00.000-07:00

The BMB is proud to present the Black Mountain Amateur Movie Extravaganza. This is all old footage (of dubious quality) that has been knocking around the web for a while, but who has time to track it all down? We do, so here you go. Enjoy!

Velvet Revolver:

Center Visor:

Regeneration:

Tulip:

Tour de France Sit:

Stanage Problem:

Ubiquitous:

Unnamed v4:

Cracker Boy:

Loh Roof Project:

No Black Mountain Weekend

2009-04-10T11:15:00.000-07:00

It looks like a good number of the BMBers are out of town this weekend, scattered across the rocks of North America. So no BMW for the next two days, but it picks up again Wednesday.

Black Mountain Wednesday

2009-04-07T10:15:00.000-07:00

We are going to be starting the day tomorrow around 10am at The Republic again if anyone would like to join. See below for directions and logistics.

Metamorphosis

2009-04-06T11:07:00.000-07:00

The BMB is proud to give you the brilliant Metamorphosis, at the Republic. Enjoy.

[UPDATE]: Video fixed.

Gate Open! Sort of.

2009-04-06T11:03:00.000-07:00

BMB stud Dom has this to say about the gate:

Confirmation: the gate IS unlocked at the moment. we were able to park and climb at OK Corrall.. and drive to the gate near boulder basin (casual ten minute walk in).. temps were very good.. very syked!! always.. with that being said: i called the ranger station yesterday and the lady told me the gate was not open.. maybe she was just misinformed. also, there was a back hoe and some bobcat machinery doing some work half way up the road. MAYBE the gate is only open right now, to allow for these workers to do their job for the next week or so and then it will close again until mid-may? probably not, but a possibility. regardless, definitely open today, the word is out, several cars drove up, although we were the only climbers..

We'll let you know when our spies figure this whole thing out.

[UPDATE]: Via comments, handsome BMBer Aaron has the following to add:

I rolled up, checked out the republic (sweet freakin boulders and was able to drive all the way to the top parking area in my 2wd tacoma! - not recommended for those with a light gas foot-) Then drove up black mt road and followed the first break in the road (the first hairpin turn - which is where they are doing a ton of wood cutting with helicopter and all). Turned around and went up to the campground, passed it and got stuck in the snow (and became one of those stupid tourons they keep the gate closed for) and got pulled out by some dude out with his fam for the day. It seems like the temps are pretty sweet for sending right now. I wouldn't recommend going past the campground tho till the snow melts a little more.

Black Mountain Weekend

2009-04-03T10:42:00.000-07:00

BMB ambassadors Dom and Ryan are shooting for Boulder Basin this Saturday. The BMB has heard that the gate is open, but this hasn't been confirmed. Come one, come all, Black Mountain season begins!

New to Black Mountain? Need directions? Download the old Dr. Topo guide here.

Black Mountain Renaissance

2009-04-02T21:32:00.000-07:00

People have been climbing very challenging lines at Black Mountain for many decades now. That would be enough time for a large tree to grow up in front of a once classic line not to mention moss and lichen. Point being, for any claims on our part of development, it is implied that it could very well be, and in most cases is redevelopment. The mountain has undergone many eras of climbing leaving little trace behind outside of the Basin and OK proximity. The history may never get fully brought to light, but we will do our best.

Another Wednesday at the Republic has come and gone. Like most new boulders, once you begin to clean and climb, more lines appear. Five Peabody sized blocks have yielded over 30 independent lines not all of which have been completed yet ranging from ultra classic 30ft moderate slab to several double dig steep power problems. It is unusual for the rock on the mountain to allow for such concentrated climbing. Another few days spent here and we can put down our brushes and simply enjoy a fantastic circuit of rare diversity. Or not. With summer rapidly approaching and the bulk of our work being uphill, the days spent at 6000' will be numbered. Rumor has it the gates are open...

No luck yet on what might be the best line in the world...

Dom working out the moves on Forms.

Tim enjoying a morning lap on one of many heal hooking arete climbs at the Republic.

Black Mountain Wednesday

2009-03-30T17:11:00.000-07:00

[UPDATE]: We've been working hard at the BMB - look what we have to show for it. The less-than-optimal directions in the original post have been updated. Now with milage!

Black Mountain Wednesdays begin! This wed we are going back to The Republic, finishing up the new development in this cooler, lower area. Everyone is welcome! Come climb the brand spanken' new problems or brush some of your own! Sexy BMBers Ian, Dom, and Chesty should be there at 8:00 or so, and others will be arriving around 10:00.

Directions from I-10: Take the highway 243 exit toward Idyllwild. At 9.3 miles you will pass the Diamond Zen Center sign. At 12.6 miles you will see a small sign for the Black Mountain Trailhead (this is not the same dirt road that gets you to the OK Corral and Boulder Basin). Continue on 243 and pass the caution-taped off spring on your left. The next small pullout on your left has a dirt road in the back of it (13.6 miles on the 243 and exactly 1 mile past the trailhead). Turn onto this road, and follow it through 3 or 4 small stream crossings. After 1.5 miles, the road sort of forks, so trend left through the flat field. Continue as far as you can on the main dirt road until your vehicle reaches its limit. Chesty's sedan can only make it a half mile from the 243, Alan's sedan gets 1.8 miles up, Ian's truck can make it 2 miles, and Jay's Jeep goes a little farther to the large parking area near the end of the road. Regardless of where you park, a quick walk will get you to the large parking area near the end of the road where you will see a giant pile of rocks on your right. Follow the trail down into the gully for two more minutes and you'll see some euphoric boulders.

The Republic

2009-03-30T09:50:00.000-07:00

The BMB has been busy scoping new areas around the base of the Mountain as we wait for the gate to open. Here are a few preview photos of The Republic. Above you can see sexy climber Dom on the equally sexy Forms, a problem that exits out the right side of Plato's Cave. Cool crimps lead to squeezing up higher, and our right hands are still tired a week later.

Below Ian and Chesty work on the Auxiliary Arete, a Squamish style problem with moss and everything! As you can see, The Republic has trees and shade and, although it's out of sight, there's even a little brook. Rad. Directions to come in the following week, we just need to remember how to get ourselves back there!

The Beginning

2009-03-20T00:01:00.000-07:00

Thus begins the Black Mountain Blog. No need to waste your time - let's jump right in. Ian McIntosh and Alan Moore are working on a guidebook to Black Mountain, to be published by Wolverine Publishing, the guys who brought you the amazing Bishop, Hueco, and Yosemite guides. It's gonna be one hell of a book.

We are starting the bmb for two reasons. First, we want to keep the community updated on developments, projects, and events. For example, we have plans to organize a few FA Days so that everyone can get involved with developing black mountain, and Black Mountain Wednesdays are on the books for the next few months, a midweek climbing day for all those unemployed/students/lazy climbers out there.

Second, we want to get feedback from you guys. Black Mountain is far older than we are, and the history is not only long but also complex. We hope climbers will send us info on new problems, names for established problems, and any new areas that are discovered.

At least, that's the plan. Who knows what this blog will morph into as the guide comes along. We see this as a provisional community space in which to exchange info about our SoCal Shangra-La. Once the guide is out, who knows, but for now, this is home.