Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Raison d'Etre

A new addition to the Tour de France wall. Alan should be credited with working out all of the beta, that's right, ALL THE BETA. It's like that saying, "If I have climbed harder, it is by standing on the shoulder of giants," with "giants" being Alan and "climbing harder" being Ian's FA of this problem. Somewhere between v10 and v11. Let us know. (There are lots of "come on" so you may want the sound off).

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Brush Brush Brush

This is what we do three days a week, every week until the snow comes. Brushing problems, climbing problems, writing it all down. The project continues! Hats off to everyone who's been coming out with us, getting on new things and confirming the grades.

We spent Sunday at the YMCA camp. At some point Ian became scarface - he claims a tree is the cause but I have reason to believe otherwise - and here is Ian Scarface getting ready to commit on Light as a Feather (V6).

Nick, being a Navy Seal and all, required TWO spotters when he climbs. The idea is that he would crush a single individual, and somehow doubling up is supposed to fix that. I don't understand it either. The lighting on this arete is cool though, and it has a sweet view of the creepy burned down camp. Name anyone? More photos to come as we process them...

Monday, October 19, 2009

Fall Update

I have been too busy at Black this fall to even update this little blog. Autumn is officially here as is the window of crispy temps we so dearly cherish. We are nearing completion of rough drafts for the Basin, Summit, Lookout, and the area spanning from Town Square to Group site 4 and 5. Also included in the list of completed rough drafts are the Chappies and several areas below where some pretty amazing projects have gone down recently. In other news, I hiked Fuller ridge to the summit of San Jacinto last week, sixteen miles roundtrip, and about 3.5 miles in around 9000’ is a boulder field reminiscent of the Druid Stones above Bishop. It is unlikely that many boulderers would make the trek, or that we will have the time to either, but it is worth mention and we will try to learn a little more and put directions in the guide for the ambitious. Our midweek Black Mountain day has changed to Thursdays if anyone wants to join. We need lots of help just climbing everything to get grade consensus as well as help from those who know history and problem names for different areas on the mountain. Thanks!