Sunday, September 19, 2010

Once Upon a Time

What you can't see in this image is the 40ft chasm at the edge of the dome on one side of the lowest pad and a 60ft+ drop on the other which earns this block a double fluttery heart as well as the best sunset views at Black. To my knowledge this was an FA yesterday, which is rightly given in team fashion to all who sent. Although moderate at the grade (v3ish), this climb, as well as the descent, demands a very solid head. It is an astonishing addition to Blacks highball adventure bouldering circuit.

Monday, September 13, 2010

Out of the Ok Corral

Some of the best climbing on the mountain is accessed from the Corral. Over the last few years we have climbed on a ton of new/rediscovered blocks largely to the west of the Corral at about the same elevation. A 30 minute trek west of the parking sits several clusters of monster boulders, most with flat, even sandy landings. There are several hundred climbs along this stretch of the mountain that are very worthy of inclusion to the guide. In the last three years I have never seen another climber out that way that was not with us that day, however, I know we are not the first to venture here. Subtle evidence of a broken flake, a scrubbed foothold, seasons old chalk lingering inside of a mossy undercling, serve as a rare reminder that others at some point were not afraid of a 30 minute walk to go bouldering. If you or anyone you know has some history about these outer lying boulders please shoot me an email. Thanks. Here are some samples of the rock to human scale.

Myself on a still undone and very committing project....

Jeff H. warming up on one of the best highball v4's anywhere.

Thursday, September 2, 2010