Thursday, April 30, 2009

Super Topo Thread

Here is a thread containing some fantastic Black Mountain pictures from the 70's and 80's.


Does anybody know the name or history of the right corner on this block? About a 15 minute walk west and slightly up hill of the OK Corral sits this gem as well as a handful of others that appear to have been climbed or at least cleaned, including a large, very hard, slightly overhung dihedral with a large cheat stone pile under it. Anybody???

Joe on a very nice V7ish line in the vicinity.

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Alan and I will be heading up to the Ok Corral tomorrow morning if anybody would like to join. We plan on being at the second gate (the locked one) around 9am. We have dialed in the walk and it is a casual 25-30 min walk if you cut out a few of the switchbacks. Temps look good for a full day!

Friday, April 24, 2009

Lots of Boulders

Joe on Gimmi Some. This problem is amazing. Impossible until you do it, then easy as pie. Such a learned problem can't be found in the old gym. Kind of like Dark Horse in that regard - it's either done or not even close.

Joe once again, this time working the beginning of Morphic Resonance. What an amazing climb, and certainly hard for a v9! The moves on the sit start are possible, but a little to hard for the BMB this season. We need to get some of those kids up in here!

Every time we wander around the OK Corral, we're amazed at how many boulders there are. Lots of hiking, lots of scouting, lots of brushing. Hopefully we'll have a nice circuit of 50+ problems finished by the time the gate opens, all of them up hill and West of the established problems. If anyone's going up there before May 15 and wants directions, let us know! Otherwise, photos and problems will trickle in.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009


Black Mountain Wednesday continues tomorrow with another trip to the Corral. We'll be warming up around the OK Arete area before moving down to Morphic Resonance and finishing up on new boulders around the hillside. All are welcome! We meet at Threshhold at 8:15.

Sunday, April 19, 2009

Walking to the Corral

As we saw in an earlier post, the walk from the second gate up to the OK Corral really isn't too far. Given that the gate won't be open until May 15, we just couldn't wait. It only takes 30 minutes to make the trek, following the road the whole way up. You can get down in half the time by cutting through the switchbacks, but it isn't recommended on the way up.

Thursday, April 16, 2009


The BMB hears that Alan is feeling adventurous, so it's off to the OK Corral we go! Anyone up for a little hiking this Saturday, since it looks like the gate is still closed. There is a light dusting of snow and frost that makes the place more beautiful than ever, and the hike really isn't that long. Who's down?

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

BMW Roundup

This climb is a thing of beauty, without doubt one of the best in the country. The location, the movements, the romantic snowflakes that were falling during this send - everything about it demands your affection. Twilight of the Idols, perhaps v10ish we are thinking. But what do we know, get on it yourself!

Directions: From the Republic, continue up the dirt road until it ends, turning into a manzanita tunnel chopped through the brush. Follow this for about twenty minutes until the ground levels out and you return to the daylight. From the end of the tunnel, the obvious footprints and ducks trend forward and left for another ten minutes until you come across this beauty.

In other news, BMW was awesome once again. We had Joe and we had Joel and we had Alan and we had Nick and we had a little bit of another Joe. We could use more company though, so get work off next Wednesday everyone! Lots of brushing, lots of heartbreak, and a little bit of victory - that's what BMW is all about. Take a look:

Oh he wants it! Joel wants it so badly!

Nic on some cool boulders over by Twilight. He got scared and came down though, so don't think this is anything impressive.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Black Mountain Map

Since the gate second gate appears to be closed for the time being, here's a map of the road from the second gate (A) to the OK Corral (B) and Boulder Basin (C). Walking doesn't look like it would be too bad - 2.3 miles from the gate to the corral if you follow the road the whole way. But since the road takes all those curves, a crafty boulderer could probably cut this in half by cutting straight through.

What do you all think? How long is the treck? What are the best switchbacks to leave off? Is there a trail? We've been too lazy at the BMB, but this is going to change soon.

Monday, April 13, 2009

Gate Open! Sort of.

It appears the early gate unlocking was merely to let some loggers in, since the people who destroy our nation's forests should clearly get priority access to them. There is now a sign on the gate saying it will not be unlocked until May 15. Bah!


It looks like people are psyched on the Republic, so the BMB will be up there again this Wednesday. Early. Leaving Riverside at 8:00. Any one else want to come? Directions here.

Saturday, April 11, 2009

The Moss Problem

At the Republic. Yet to be done. Isn't the green lovely?


The BMB is proud to present the Black Mountain Amateur Movie Extravaganza. This is all old footage (of dubious quality) that has been knocking around the web for a while, but who has time to track it all down? We do, so here you go. Enjoy!

Velvet Revolver:

Center Visor:



Tour de France Sit:

Stanage Problem:


Unnamed v4:

Cracker Boy:

Loh Roof Project:

Friday, April 10, 2009

No Black Mountain Weekend

It looks like a good number of the BMBers are out of town this weekend, scattered across the rocks of North America. So no BMW for the next two days, but it picks up again Wednesday.

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Black Mountain Wednesday

We are going to be starting the day tomorrow around 10am at The Republic again if anyone would like to join. See below for directions and logistics.

Monday, April 6, 2009


The BMB is proud to give you the brilliant Metamorphosis, at the Republic. Enjoy.

[UPDATE]: Video fixed.

Gate Open! Sort of.

BMB stud Dom has this to say about the gate:
Confirmation: the gate IS unlocked at the moment. we were able to park and climb at OK Corrall.. and drive to the gate near boulder basin (casual ten minute walk in).. temps were very good.. very syked!! always.. with that being said: i called the ranger station yesterday and the lady told me the gate was not open.. maybe she was just misinformed. also, there was a back hoe and some bobcat machinery doing some work half way up the road. MAYBE the gate is only open right now, to allow for these workers to do their job for the next week or so and then it will close again until mid-may? probably not, but a possibility. regardless, definitely open today, the word is out, several cars drove up, although we were the only climbers..
We'll let you know when our spies figure this whole thing out.

[UPDATE]: Via comments, handsome BMBer Aaron has the following to add:
I rolled up, checked out the republic (sweet freakin boulders and was able to drive all the way to the top parking area in my 2wd tacoma! - not recommended for those with a light gas foot-) Then drove up black mt road and followed the first break in the road (the first hairpin turn - which is where they are doing a ton of wood cutting with helicopter and all). Turned around and went up to the campground, passed it and got stuck in the snow (and became one of those stupid tourons they keep the gate closed for) and got pulled out by some dude out with his fam for the day. It seems like the temps are pretty sweet for sending right now. I wouldn't recommend going past the campground tho till the snow melts a little more.

Friday, April 3, 2009

Black Mountain Weekend

BMB ambassadors Dom and Ryan are shooting for Boulder Basin this Saturday. The BMB has heard that the gate is open, but this hasn't been confirmed. Come one, come all, Black Mountain season begins!

New to Black Mountain? Need directions? Download the old Dr. Topo guide here.

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Black Mountain Renaissance

People have been climbing very challenging lines at Black Mountain for many decades now. That would be enough time for a large tree to grow up in front of a once classic line not to mention moss and lichen. Point being, for any claims on our part of development, it is implied that it could very well be, and in most cases is redevelopment. The mountain has undergone many eras of climbing leaving little trace behind outside of the Basin and OK proximity. The history may never get fully brought to light, but we will do our best.

Another Wednesday at the Republic has come and gone. Like most new boulders, once you begin to clean and climb, more lines appear. Five Peabody sized blocks have yielded over 30 independent lines not all of which have been completed yet ranging from ultra classic 30ft moderate slab to several double dig steep power problems. It is unusual for the rock on the mountain to allow for such concentrated climbing. Another few days spent here and we can put down our brushes and simply enjoy a fantastic circuit of rare diversity. Or not. With summer rapidly approaching and the bulk of our work being uphill, the days spent at 6000' will be numbered. Rumor has it the gates are open...

No luck yet on what might be the best line in the world...

Dom working out the moves on Forms.

Tim enjoying a morning lap on one of many heal hooking arete climbs at the Republic.