Monday, November 1, 2010

Dr. Topo Returns

The guide is getting close to completion, but that isn't a whole lot of help for people who want to head up to black mountain RIGHT NOW. There used to be an old Dr. Topo guide online, but the site went under a year ago leaving everyone with nothing. Well here it is once again, uploaded with Dave Struther's permission. Have fun.

Sunday, September 19, 2010

Once Upon a Time

What you can't see in this image is the 40ft chasm at the edge of the dome on one side of the lowest pad and a 60ft+ drop on the other which earns this block a double fluttery heart as well as the best sunset views at Black. To my knowledge this was an FA yesterday, which is rightly given in team fashion to all who sent. Although moderate at the grade (v3ish), this climb, as well as the descent, demands a very solid head. It is an astonishing addition to Blacks highball adventure bouldering circuit.

Monday, September 13, 2010

Out of the Ok Corral

Some of the best climbing on the mountain is accessed from the Corral. Over the last few years we have climbed on a ton of new/rediscovered blocks largely to the west of the Corral at about the same elevation. A 30 minute trek west of the parking sits several clusters of monster boulders, most with flat, even sandy landings. There are several hundred climbs along this stretch of the mountain that are very worthy of inclusion to the guide. In the last three years I have never seen another climber out that way that was not with us that day, however, I know we are not the first to venture here. Subtle evidence of a broken flake, a scrubbed foothold, seasons old chalk lingering inside of a mossy undercling, serve as a rare reminder that others at some point were not afraid of a 30 minute walk to go bouldering. If you or anyone you know has some history about these outer lying boulders please shoot me an email. Thanks. Here are some samples of the rock to human scale.

Myself on a still undone and very committing project....

Jeff H. warming up on one of the best highball v4's anywhere.

Thursday, September 2, 2010

Thursday, August 26, 2010

The Broken Heart Area

Uphill and a few hundred yards north of the OK Coral is the Broken Heart Boulder (featured on the inside cover of Craig Fry's Socal Bouldering Guide but nowhere described) and a handful of other easily accessible and classic lines. Here Anthony T. squeezes his way up an original Dan Osmond problem just around the corner from the Broken Heart. If anyone has information regarding names and history for climbs in this area please post up or shoot us an email. Thanks!

Saturday, June 19, 2010

Summer Days...

Aron on the Ok Arete

...make for good evening sessions

Friday, May 14, 2010

The Gate is Open

We can all now boulder without making our quads all big thereby causing falls. Yippeeeee.

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Long Awaited Update that is Unquestionably Not Worth the Wait

We've been horribly negligent with this blog here. Chock it up to Ian's new job and Alan's dissertation. Things always come up, you all know.

So some news. The season started off at the Republic, and except for a few projects here and there, the area is fully developed. Below you can see an open palm full of power spot on the moss project.

We then started walking up to the Ok Corral since the gate is closed (more on this later). My god it's been beautiful up there in the clouds - fog makes the mountain into a magical wonderland of rock and stone. Although we don't know many of the names for the problems in the Corral (it's likely they simply don't have them), the guidebooking for the Corral is pretty much finished.

We added a new sit start to Morphic Resonance, somewhere around v11. Here's a photo, since to see this wall is to love this wall.

We also put up a v8 to the right of Morphic, starting on a sloper and traversing up and right into the Hueco Wall. We've called it Run Run Carmel, but there's a decent chance it's already been done. Anyone know?

Now it's time to move up the mountain. Word on the street is that the gate opens up tomorrow, but we'll have to confirm this over the weekend. Keeping in line with the title, that is all for now. We'll try hard not to shirk our obligations in the future.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010


[UPDATE]: Weather is looking bad tomorrow. Climbing is probably off for the day...boulder at your own risk!

Going out to the Republic again tomorrow for a half day of climbing. Anyone in the IE interested can meet us at Threshold in Riverside at noon. Otherwise, we'll be up there around 1:00.

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Black Mountain Friday

A group of us are heading out Friday, most likely to the Republic. Email us if you want to join, address on the right.

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Saturday made for another fine outing at Black with a great crew and the traditional champagne to welcome in another season. Props to Aron C. for completing two new lines at the Republic on the ironically dubbed "pixie boulder." This is the first boulder one sees when approaching the Republic, 30+ ft of slightly less the vertical face and even more slightly featured. Quintessential oldschool Black! Below Craig is warming up on the center line This Monkeys Gone to Heaven, the original line that runs directly up the center of the face at around V2/3. Aron added a line on either side of this both about a grade harder, a bit more frightening, and both share the center start. The left line begins by moving diagonally up and left to the arete on poor smears, and the right, named Where is my Mind, joins up with the under-cling seam above the small pine. All three lines have many stars and are a great rite of passage into the world of tall slab at Black.

Matty on Twighlight

And Anthony T sending Twighlight. Nice work on this and Metamorphosis in one day!

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Crisp temps and dry blocks at the Republic and beyond. Although the main gate will probably open late this season because of the heavy snow pack, we will be plenty busy with many new projects and guide booking at lower elevation areas and possibly a hike or two up to the Corral. If anybody has input now is the time. We will be making a big push to gather info, opinions, and photos this spring and in general tie up loose ends. Email us at

Monday, January 4, 2010

Return of Black Mountain Wednesday

I am heading up to get photos, gps, and refine a topo around Twighlight of the Idols Wednesday incase anyone wants to meet up...and every other Wednesday weather abiding.