Sunday, April 11, 2010

Saturday made for another fine outing at Black with a great crew and the traditional champagne to welcome in another season. Props to Aron C. for completing two new lines at the Republic on the ironically dubbed "pixie boulder." This is the first boulder one sees when approaching the Republic, 30+ ft of slightly less the vertical face and even more slightly featured. Quintessential oldschool Black! Below Craig is warming up on the center line This Monkeys Gone to Heaven, the original line that runs directly up the center of the face at around V2/3. Aron added a line on either side of this both about a grade harder, a bit more frightening, and both share the center start. The left line begins by moving diagonally up and left to the arete on poor smears, and the right, named Where is my Mind, joins up with the under-cling seam above the small pine. All three lines have many stars and are a great rite of passage into the world of tall slab at Black.





Matty on Twighlight

And Anthony T sending Twighlight. Nice work on this and Metamorphosis in one day!

9 comments:

  1. How is the road? I'm sure the gates are closed, but is there snow up top?

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  2. We were at the republic which is lower on the mountain. So we aren't sure how the road is, but we'll be finding out soon...

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  3. How exactly can one get to the republic?
    I would like to go try the "Twighlight" problems, it looks amazing.

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  4. Look back in the archives for directions. The republic is tagged, so just follow the link on the right of the main blog page.

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  5. yes, but how is the road to the republic?

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  6. The road is...ok. They built a bunch of burns to prevent erosion, which is fine with a truck, but they are a little large for cars. Perhaps I'll break them down a little with my undercarriage tomorrow...

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  7. I was able to drive all the way to the campground gate (I have a key) with a 2WD truck and highway tires, but it was dicey in spots. There are some drifts that would stop even a 4WD after the gate, but the summit was clear.

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  8. How did you get that key? We need to get back to work on the guide for the upper areas, but we are stymied by the gates. Even the one at the highway was locked last weekend...

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  9. The Republic was under snow yesterday. It was no bueno.

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