Tuesday, November 17, 2009


An old Toni Lamprect FA over by Cracker Boy. Many of you probably know the stand start as that cool geometric v8 thing in the corridor. The sit is called Dementor and clocks in somewhere around v12. Poor quality, but hey, that's all you're gonna get.

UPDATE: Fixed the name from Dominion to Dementor. Stupid generic boulder problem names. Might as well be Soul (take your pick: Snatch, Caliber, Slinger, Shine).

UPDATE: Fixed the post title too. Why can't I remember the name of this problem? It switches in my brain from minute to minute.


  1. Oh Alan, only you would make note of the hardest kneebar of your life...Regardless, nice work!

    - bee

  2. do you know if Lamprecht used a kneepad on his FA? just wondering as to how much difference it would make.
    also, Adam Strong of CO and myself climbed this from a mid-start years ago and called it V9. We started it somewhere above where Alan did, but lower than the noted 'stand' holds.
    ...and the first ascentionist should get to keep his naming of the rock.
    oh and as an added addendum, when i named Soulsnatch, i knew of only one other problem with a soul name, Soulslinger in Bishop. Ryan Held subsequently named the two at Tram, Soulshine and Soulcaliber. Obviously he has a problem.

  3. Here's a mouthful:

    I'm pretty sure Lamprecht didn't use a kneepad when he got the FA - none of those Germies do - but hey, he's way stronger than I am. The two first moves are by far the hardest, and I think you're spot on, if you add one move into the stand it's probably v9. Of course Lamprecht named the sit, just as Rob Mulligan has the FKA of the stand and named it. Is any of this off?

    And I wasn't criticizing any particular person for the soul names. Stupid Ryan Held. It's like you had the I-Phone, and then everyone else got the I-Phone, and now your I-Phone isn't as cool as it was.

  4. This video would be even better if you added some sweet EfX. Like stars and flashing lights.

  5. that all sounds spot on...did u climb that alone or did u have a spotter? that top out mantle is skeery
    by the way this is joe

  6. I was alone. The fall in the beginning of the clip was a full somersault, and you're right, it would not have been good to fall on the top mantle.
    by the way, of course i know you're joe. ian and i need photos of you on soulsnatch, so you should come out with us next season.