Thursday, May 21, 2009


Black Mountain Wednesday was spent at the Chappies yesterday, and what a nice little bunch of boulders! The Chappies aren't a new area, but they are rarely climbed on because info is rather scarce. The rock is a little different than Boulder Basin, and feels more like the Tram, or even at times, like the Buttermilks.

Directions (stolen from the SoCalPD): Drive past Boulder Basin until you get to the Fuller ridge road split. Go down hill, or left if you're looking at it like a fork, and continue from this point for up to a 1/2 mile. There will be a very obvious sandy pullout on your left, really the only left you can make after the split. Park here and continue on foot down the road/trail found in the back left of the "parking lot" area.

Continue down hill on trail through "campsite" (do NOT camp here) and cross the small stream up hill to left into the obvious pile of rocks. The Chappies spread up hill from here, to the road, and down hill from here, to the road again.

Fun rocks abound, like the v3 above (anyone know the name?). A complete classic! But it isn't all easy, and once this area is fully developed, it could have the largest concentration of hard climbs on the mountain. In one day we spotted at least five lines with the potential to be double digits.

Here we have Ian on (what we think is) a new problem, Moss Apocalypse (v7). A cool heel hooking lip leads to a scary topout, but luckily the climbing gets easier as the climber gets higher.

I leave you with this: Joe trying trying trying...falling.



  1. OMG that Ian guy is sooooo hot!!! I would totally do it with him!!!!!

  2. he's ripped and motherfucking sexy as hell!!!!!!!!